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(continues the interview by Irene Graziotto with Elizabeth Gabay_ 2nd part)
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What other big changes, if any, have influenced the world of rosé in the last ten years?
EC: The financial success of Provençal rosés cannot be understated. It has given rosé producers the confidence to consider that rosé could perhaps be more than just a wine for two months of the year.
This prompted people like Sacha Lichine to announce that he was making the world's most expensive rosé at €80 a bottle – and to sell out every year.
This success led winemakers to experiment with the use of oak and amphora in production.
In many ways this is nothing extraordinary, but for many producers, just thinking that they could make more serious rosés if they wanted was a considerable mental leap.
Rosé is undoubtedly the most Instagrammed type of wine, constantly surrounded by swimming pools, the sea, moments of leisure, etc.
Consumers buy rosé because it is rosé rather than because it comes from one geographic region over another.
Agree?
EC: Yes – but I also think this emphasis on Instagram rosés is showing a divide in the rosé world, between beach rosés and serious rosés.
The big question is whether the Instagram image of rosé makes it difficult to appreciate serious rosé.
"Single-Vineyard Rosés in Napa and Sonoma are Bringing Focus to Terroir” is the title of an article by Wine Enthusiast released last fall.
Do you think we will ever get to a production/communication tied to the territory also for rosés, perhaps for those produced in the crus?
EC: Absolutely, and it's already starting.
Provence has highlighted 4 different soils – limestone, schist, volcanic and mixed gravel – and these are revealing an interesting diversity. Beaujolais rosé from granite soils, Sicilian rosé from volcanic soils, etc. are other examples.
Many producers are still thinking of rosé as a neutral product, but territoriality is a growing trend.
And so are altitude rosés.
In addition to the Sicilian rosés mentioned above, what other denominations are in demand and can be found abroad?
EC: The other successful rosé is the Pinot Grigio from Veneto.
I saw that Chiaretto is also available – but as of yet there is still not much understanding that there are two different types of rosé produced on Lake Garda (Chiaretto di Bardolino and Chiaretto Valtenesi, ed.).
Other Italian rosés appear to be chosen more randomly – by (cheap) price, because the producer is well known and its red and white wines are bought, but as mentioned above few consumers seem to want an Italian rosé of a specific denomination.
Italian Rosés: Not much talked about. Is there a particular reason?
EC: Perhaps due to a lack of trust on the part of the producers?
Low-priced bulk rosés and Pinot Grigios have been seen as lucrative sources while quality rosés are still a secret to a select audience.
However, a long history and tradition and some different and incredible styles suggest that there is going to be a change soon.
As long as quality and diversity are duly defended.
If you were an Italian producer, where would you export your wine?
That is, which markets are most attracted to rosé?
EC: America, especially the East Coast which is an important market for rosés where there is a strong growth in interest and curiosity for wine.
However, the market is quite saturated and many manufacturers reveal that it absorbs only small quantities.
Australia is a market interested in rosé that is developing massively – perhaps the one with the highest growth rate at the moment.
Scandinavia is also a good market – but still, due to the monopoly, with limited variety.
And finally, Central Europe. It's easy to forget, but Central Europe is also a fast-growing market.
What is the situation in the UK??
EC: The UK – as far as Horeca is concerned – is still at the bottom of the list.
There are some rosés on offer – Pinot Grigio and White Zinfandel or expensive rosés from Provence on the wine list.
As for the large-scale retail trade, you can find more or less the same offer with some classic wines from Provence.
In wine shops you can find small quantities of rosé but this is the sector that gives me hope.
This sector is looking for new wines and quality rosés with a real personality (regional, traditional, original) can find a suitable market here.
The big problem in the UK for HORECA and large-scale retail trade is that there is always a race to the bottom on prices.
Consumer profile: with some rosés selling for 80 euros a bottle, it's not just young consumers sitting by the pool or shopping at the supermarket.
Who is it about?
EC: Rosé for 80 euros… Garrus’s biggest market by far is the yacht clientele – St. Tropez, Cannes, Costa Smeralda…. Sacha Lichine created his Garrus rosé exactly for this market; he himself realized he had hit the mark when yacht designers started building shelves to store Garrus magnums.
Alternatively – only very select high-end restaurants and wine bars.
There is a market for expensive rosés aimed at the wealthy.
There are expensive rosés from California and Spain… but still a small number. I have two opinions about expensive rosés.
First opinion on the matter – I don’t like this image of rosé for rich people.
However, there is a market that likes expensive wines.
Second opinion on the matter – if making better rosés to justify the price encourages the production of good rosés, then so be it!
Five iconic rosés?
EG “Bodegas Lopez de Heredia Tondonia in Rioja, Garrus from Chateau d'Esclans in Provence, Domaine Tempier in Bandol, Olivier Horiot with his Rosé de Riceys and, finally, rosé Champagne”.
And five lesser-known regions that deserve to become iconic?
EC: Impossible to say – definitely regions to keep an eye on are Oregon (Pinot Noir rosé), volcanic rosés from Sicily and the Azores, then Greece with its lovely indigenous varietals that have good acidity and ripe fruit aromas, Austria – fruit and acidity and some serious winemaking work in progress, and finally California – varietal character, terroir character, interesting varietals and blends, and a curiosity for new styles.
Any thoughts on how the world of rosé will change in the next ten years?
Are there already some minor changes taking place?
EC: Winemakers are learning to get the most out of the rosé style and even go beyond.
Interesting Varieties – Many indigenous varieties have been forgotten because they did not produce great red wines but are perfect for rosés.
Others produce tannic, alcoholic reds – but harvested a little early they have the potential to produce good rosés.
Petit Verdot doesn’t make the most elegant reds but it is fantastic and fruity when vinified as a rosé. Terroir – limestone can help provide a creamier acidity, volcanic soils minerality while altitude conveys acidity and ripe fruit.
Greater recognition of historic traditions and appreciation of regional styles. Tavel, Cerasuolo, Clairet – all have a history of darker, fruitier rosés.
There is a risk of losing this tradition as many producers believe that wines must be clear to be sold.
Will the trend of appreciating darker-toned rosés catch on?
It’s still a question mark – but I think the answer will probably be yes.
Experimenting with winemaking techniques – fermentation and/or oak aging – is no easy task as the oak can dominate the wine.
The use of amphora or concrete helps to give an attractive body and structure.
A long contact with the skins, especially if some white varieties are also used in the blend, also helps to give substance without changing the style of the rosé.
The biggest trend – discovering that rosés can age and don’t need to be drunk within a year or two.
The text of the interview by Irene Graziotto with Elizabeth Gabay, In English,
can be consulted at this link.
For further information on the topic:
_Elizabeth Gabay, Rosé:
Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution
_OIV Study 2015
http://www.oiv.int/public/medias/3103/focus-2015-les-vins-roses-en.pdf
_Conseil Interprofessionel de Vins de Provence
www.vinsdeprovence.com
_Vidauban
www.centredurose.fr
_ “The Lila Wines Case” on AleaNewsCafé
https://aleanewscafe.com/2018/06/07/2866/
_Wine Spectator:
special on rosés 2018
_American Association Wine Economics
http://www.wine-economics.org/aawe/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/2D-Couderc-Rose-wines-Volume-consumption-production-prices-exchanges-worldwide-trends-consumers.pdf
_Wine Enthusiast
https://www.winemag.com/2017/09/19/single-vineyard-roses-in-napa-and-sonoma-are-bringing-focus-to-terroir/
_Wine Searcher
https://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2018/05/the-pale-and-uninteresting-problem-with-rose[/ Vc_column_text] [/ vc_column] [/ vc_row]